20 time middle period rises, a kind of new cheongsam is born. Shanghai is at that time accepted dress vogue center, its impetus precedes at the whole nation each district is controlling the change of Chinese dress vogue far. Of Shanghai cheongsam vogue original, with sleeveless long waists-coat form appears, the long waists-coat outside short coat replaced long skirt. 1926, long waists-coat incorporates with short coat, had the design with new original cheongsam of the Republic of China. Zhang Ailing evaluates: The cheongsam that promotes at the beginning of “ is severe cold Founder, have Puritan color. ” gown body comfortable, profile is flat, length is in ankle Guanxiazhi go up or about the place of crus abdomen, pour big sleeve, get, front of a garment, place etc place still be fond of do roll a margin inlaid, but the wind day of numerous cotton-padded mattress is decreased, ? “ Jian does ” and broadness to roll an antiquated be regardinged as to symbolize. It is the clip cheongsam that wears when Qiu Dong, pour big sleeve, have a lacy adornment only. Medium cheongsam, already displayed waist measurement slightly, long to crus abdomen, ? Big sleeve. 1924 autumn, yuan glume marries the female Liu of Chun Lin of Liu of Number One Scholar of the last reign of a dynasty " jade pear fetch " author Xu Zhenya, what the bride wears at that time is cheongsam of this kind of big sleeve.
20 time not, the cheongsam begins to receive a small of the back, suffer Euramerican the influence of tide of short skirt popularity, cycloid rises to fall to genu, still be big sleeve, but cuff decrescent, decorate property set clean rolling hasten, cancel completely even, tonal also quietly elegant of do one's best is harmonious, appear very concise and convenient on rear body. The cheongsam that Shanghai schoolgirl wore 1929, cycloid already reached knee point, gown body becomes fit, some cuff mount copy overcome a husband Western-styly, become popularity temporarily vogue. The Chinese style daughter of 20 time installs the most striking feature, pour big sleeve namely, include a cheongsam. big sleeve has in the gown of banner daughter, chinese coat of female unlined upper garment also fashionable spends a paragraph of period, the ” of “ civilized new clothes at the beginning of the Republic of China also is big sleeve, ? The cheongsam of 20 time all the time continue to use form of this kind of sleeve, till 30 time just disappear slowly.
19 centuries 20 time, europe caparison acted the role of aesthetic standard to produce very big effect to Chinese female. The main feature that belle of Europe of this one period takes has at 3 o'clock: Emphasize linear model; The skirt length that often wears comes genu; The boundary of garment body and skirt is reduced to hip circumference the following. These features of western popularity female outfit, go up in the cheongsam of contemporaneity also somewhat map. Right now cheongsam shows flat model, do not look to give curve of pectoral waist buttock almost, lumbar section line is inferior. After 1926, the lap of the cheongsam rises one litre again, come to rose to be in to knee 1929, the woman just shows they are beautiful and strong and handsome crus just greatly, be full of period flavor. This one period, the opportunity grow in quantity of domestic and international have trade relations, communication, the piece goods that Europe imports, ? Camlet, , the textile such as silk of cloth with soft nap, bud, the move that enlarged compatriots holds an option, the move that changing people assembles a concept. People no longer “ of pursuit of so obstinate ground does to pass 3 acting ” , stimulated desire to buy to look thereby, the popularity that prompted a cheongsam and change. Importing fabrics also is one of main channel that China accepts western art style. The cheongsam of 20 time suffers apparently enlighten the effect that studies art, main show is linear modelling, symmetrical adornment and case of grain master drawing.
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