The main difference of new cheongsam of female gown and the Republic of China has Qing Daiqi at 4 o'clock. The first gown that is banner daughter does not show form and structure, especially later period, bounty is flat; Cheongsam of the Republic of China opens a province to receive a small of the back, expressional posture. This and two idea ideas of period are concerned. Dress of Chinese ancient time, include the gown of the banner person of clear generation, emphasize text and ignore person this, weigh dress design and do not emphasize human body curve. China is deprecatory always too the woman that see, also support very implicative attitude to human body. Archaic beauty, the face is main, cut shoulder, smooth bosom, fine waist, narrow buttock, frail beautiful woman is pressed in layer upon layer garment unlined upper garment next. Compare with photograph of dress of past dynasties Central Plains, the gown of banner person calculates be fit comfortable system, but it is slender only the figure of banner daughter, still conceal their body however. Cheongsam of the Republic of China suffers Hesperian the impact of this thought is very big, western dress is behaved adequately exaggerative even human body line, often not hesitate the method that uses an extreme. Here, essential is a person, the action of the cheongsam nothing more than trustily of set off by contrast ticks off curve of human body outline piece.
The 2nd, the banner is worn inside female gown trousers, the bottom of a trouser leg of embroider is shown below gown sometimes; And knickers or briefs are worn inside cheongsam of the Republic of China, move filar socks, place opening vent in the sides of a garment shows a leg. Leg of the dew below pants of the dew below vent in the sides of a garment and vent in the sides of a garment is meant new old of two kinds of humanitarian ideas alternant. The vent in the sides of a garment of cheongsam of the Republic of China leaves very high sometimes, had 1934 nearly below buttock, girth is cut into parts narrowly again, walk rise double leg is faint and visible, give a person with lively and spry and light be puzzled, had loosened greatly to behavior tie of the female at that time it is thus clear that, the culture environment of development of body and mind gets ameliorative.
The 3rd gown fabrics massiness that is banner person, much jacquard weave, adornment is trival; Fabrics of cheongsam of the Republic of China is more frivolous, much printing, adornment is contracted. To decorating the beyond the mark pursuit of detail, reflected clear acting last phase the appreciate level of feudal sovereign morbid state. Appearance of grain of clear acting fabric is given priority to with sketchy gimmick more, chrysanthemum of bamboo of lark of red-crowned crane of 100 animal of Lin of dragon lion sumptuous, phoenix, plum orchid 100 flowers, and happy event of birthday of salary of eight treasures, the Eight Immortals in the legend, blessing is commonly used subject matter, colourful complex, contrast tall, design is fine numerous cotton-padded mattress. In addition, the gown of banner person is used in great quantities lacy, ever reached the degree of extremely. Lacy and first action is to increase the prison of the dress to spend, make dress prolonged durable, so lacy much compose is in fragile place, if collarband, cuff, the one or two pieces making up the front of a Chinese jacket reachs the point such as lap, make a kind of decoration gradually later, as time passes, become common practice. Qing Dynasty is acting, use use replaced lacy adornment function to use a function actually. The gown common of banner daughter is the United States with be being set more, arrived Xian Feng, treat together year reach peak, rectify a dress to be used completely sometimes lacy and inlaid, lose sight of original dress material almost. Clear minor details, foreign fabrics has begun to flow into Chinese market, the impetus when the Republic of China already comparatived huge, 30, compare 40 years, spin printing and dyeing of abroad is mechanical already by many and fetching, fabric of a kind of jacquard weave loses bright and beautiful damask silk gradually the market, and fabric of calico, silk, ramie gets be used extensively. The processing technique of He Guangying of sketchy ability law that fabrics absorbed Europe morely on grain appearance expression, is colour unified? Harmonious. Case fabric, geometrical grain fabric also very accept compatriots favour. Cheongsam of the Republic of China goes numerous brief, collar short, arm cut body of short, gown, adornment is set boil avoided. Shang Jian's fashion is brought back by schoolgirl leaving ocean, of profile improved also facilitated to set boil wait for an illuminative to omit.
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